Archive for the ‘Il Profumo’ Category

A hard-to-find scent from Italian niche house Il Profumo which came to my attention through the search-by-note feature at The Perfumed Court. No full-length reviews of this one anywhere else, that I’ve been able to locate. (If you know otherwise, please apprise me.)

Perfume Review: Il Profumo Eclair de Tubereuse

Date released: 2005

Perfumer: Silvana Casoli

Sample provenance: sample vial of edp from TPC

Sub-category: typical creamy tuberose soliflore

Like Beyond Love and Tubereuse Criminelle, and to a lesser degree Carnal Flower, Eclair de Tubereuse starts out with some very fleeting green, grassy notes, followed almost immediately by that camphor-rubber aspect of quality tuberose absolute. No notes were released for this scent – I hate that, by the way, anal-retentive Research-Everything Geek that I am – so we’re flying blind with this one. I smell a lot of coconut here, and the effect is similar to that of monoi, that lovely island concoction of frangipani flowers macerated in coconut oil. I think, too, that there is something fruity in Eclair de Tubereuse – peach? It’s not citrus or berries. This is a very sweet scent, although not sugary or marshmallowy from added sugar or caramel or ethylmaltol. The components that I smell are all rather sweet on their own: tuberose, coconut, peach. Maybe some jasmine sambac and/or frangipani too. It is somewhat less sweet than the sugar-cane-enhanced Tubereuse Couture.

I kept sniffing my wrist, and gradually began to wonder if there is any ylang in the composition. I think I’m smelling a very faint hint of that green/creamy banana thing that ylang-ylang presents at times. The Il Profumo website lists this fragrance, along with two others – Rose Secrete and Vent de Jasmin – in their Soliflore line, so maybe I’m nuts about other notes. But I do think that the scent character is very much soliflore, even if there are other notes rounding out the fragrance.

Like most tuberose scents, it’s pretty much tuberose all the way through. The base seems to have some light musk, and possibly a drop or two of woody notes. Lasting power, like most tuberose scents, is very good on me. One drop from my sample vial lasts four to five hours.

I do wonder about the name. Il Profumo is an Italian house that seems to use mostly French names. “Eclair” is either “light” in French (I think), or a reference to that eggy pastry filled with creamy custard! So it’s either Light of Tuberose, or Tuberose Pastry, and I don’t know which. It’s driving me nuts. Babelfish says Flash of Tuberose. Aha.

(I fail to see how anything filled with custard cream could possibly be referred to as a “flash,” but perhaps that’s beside the point.  It also used to amuse the heck out of me that Roscoe P. Coltrane’s laconic basset hound was named Flash, and yes, I am old enough to have watched The Dukes of Hazzard through most of its TV existence.  My little brother was addicted to it, and I just wanted to figure out how to slide across the hood of a car like Bo Duke did.)

Quality: A- Smells fresh and natural. A relatively simple composition, but a lovely one.

Grab-scale score: 7.5 – 8, close to par with Beyond Love.

Short description: Tropical tuberose.

Cost: $$$ (At the moment, running about $125 for 50ml bottle of edp at the il Profumo website.  However, a 7.5 ml bottle of parfum is also available, at about $55.  The prices are in Euros, though, so the exchange rate will fluctuate.)

Earns compliments: Worn at home alone.

Scent presence: Moderately strong, with moderate sillage.

Review report: none, except a brief mention in the comments of a post on tuberose scents at Now Smell This, and one review at basenotes.

Top image is from fragrantica.com.  Bottom image is Tuberose by Meighan at flickr.

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