Okay, disclaimer here: I usually set up a template for Scent Diary on my laptop and add a little bit to it each day, then publish it Sunday afternoon or evening. This particular week, pre-vacation, was so busy that I neglected the diary, and it’s woefully incomplete. I do apologize for that. However, the end of the week does contain a few observations on travel and some sniffery reportage, so perhaps it’s not a complete waste of time…
Monday, Feb. 21: Warm and nice this morning. I grabbed a lightweight jacket I hadn’t worn in some months, and found vintage Arpege parfum on the sleeves. It rubbed off onto my wrists – just a little bit, but enough to enjoy for a couple of hours before I moved on to testing a few other possibilities for our Malta trip: Carthusia Mediterraneo and Caprissimo, both FAILS. Mediterraneo is essentially a nice citrus cologne; I was assured it was much more floral, by Someone Who Is Very Wrong, not that I am holding a grudge… although I would be holding a grudge, if I’d been dumb enough to buy an unsniffed bottle. Caprissimo is one of the reasons that aldehydic floral scents wear the moniker “Old Lady” – I have rarely smelled a more unpleasant, powdery-mildewy, fusty-dusty fragrance. After a couple of hours it got nicer, but still not wearable in my book.
In the afternoon, it started to pour rain, and got much chillier. SOTAfternoon was Vamp á NY, to cheer myself up. It worked, and then I got home and found a spray sample of Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Mirto di Panarea, so I spritzed the inner elbow of my shirt. This, in my opinion, is even more like what I wanted for my vacation scent than last week’s success, Nobile 1942 Pontevecchio W. Mirto di Panarea starts out very aromatic and herbal, with some citrus and sage (maybe?) and lavender, and the lavender, usually an Instant Headache trigger, is very pleasant. Then it goes to a nice quiet rose under the herbs, and a bit of woods and musk.
Tuesday, Mar. 1: Sunny. (Here’s where I stopped writing, apparently, and now cannot remember a darn thing about what fragrance I wore or even if anything else interesting happened that day. Oh, yes, now I remember – it was Statement Day at work. I think maybe I wore Mariella Burani. Funny how I always seem to go for comfort scents on Statement Days.)
Wednesday, Mar. 2: (I got nothin’ here. Wednesday is a blur… except that I spent the day at work training the guy who’ll be taking over most of my duties while I’m gone. I strongly suspect that very soon my boss is going to split up my duties among several of the other employees, leaving me out of a part-time job. If that happens, I plan to spend time writing. I’m well aware that the quality of writing here at MiWS has deteriorated over the last year, year and a half or so, but I’m just so freakin’ busy that I feel guilty about all the stuff I haven’t done, and there’s no time… Not Working might actually be a relief.)
Thursday, Mar. 3: (Also completely nada, a day gone out of memory. I think I helped the kids pack up their clothes and personal stuff for staying with The CEO’s parents, and made further arrangements for the trip. Packed several fragrance samples for the trip: OJ Champaca, Via Camarelle, Pontevecchio W, Mirto di Panarea, and for cheery comfort, Vamp a NY.)
Quick recap of what this trip/holiday is for: The CEO was paid for teaching a class last semester in another department with “professional development” money, which he had to use before June. He found a conference in Malta for the week of Spring Break. We’re flying into Rome and from there to Malta, so on the way back we’ll spend a few days in Rome.
Malta is a group of three islands (Malta, Gozo, and Comino) located southeast of Sicily in the Mediterranean. It’s been an independent country since 1963, but before that, it was an important naval fortress for a number of civilizations (Turks, the Knights of St. John, Napoleonic France, and England). People speak Maltese, which is closely related to Arabic but written with Western-style lettering, and a large number of them also speak English.
Friday, Mar. 4: (Also nothin’ written this day. However, my memory for it is much clearer.) Packed suitcases, took kids to school, patted the dog excessively and explained many times that we were not abandoning her permanently, told the cat once that we’d be back, paid a buncha bills, and made the hour’s drive to the airport. Flew from Roanoke to Philly. Ate a blisteringly-hot spinach-mushroom stromboli at the airport while waiting for the flight to Rome, and then attacked the Duty Free shop for free sniffies.
There was a poster for Thierry Mugler Womanity on the door, but it turned out that the tester had disappeared, so I gave that one a miss and picked up random bottles such as Hypnotic Poison, which I’d never smelled before. It is total root beer, and I found it much less interesting than my darlin’ tuberose-root beer concoction Vamp a NY. Smelled, via scent strips, a Gucci thing I can’t remember, and A Scent by Issey Miyake (okay, it’s really green, which is refreshing, but still too, I dunno, chemical), Burberry Weekend (no), Dior Addict (double no), Hermes Eau de Merveilles (hey, that’s nice! and I thought I didn’t like orange) and Dior Homme (all iris, all the time, boooooring). Sprayed Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Flora Nymphea on my left wrist and got total orange blossom, which equals “soapy” on me (hey, my mom would like this! ). And because I’d heard that Guerlain Idylle eau de toilette was a different composition than the original eau de parfum, which was way way WAY TOO MUCH PATCHOULI, in my opinion, I took a risk and tried the EdT on my right wrist. It’s far more pleasant to my nose than the EdP, with more rose and lily of the valley and a lot less of the patch/musk accord.
I continued to enjoy the Idylle EdT throughout the nine-hour flight to Rome. It lasted several hours, even on my scent-eating skin, and it’s really nice, I think – it doesn’t pretend to be one of those modern chypre things everybody love to hate, but it’s got a deeper base than your average pretty floral. If a bottle fell out of the sky (or I found a used one for not too much $$), I’d probably wear the heck out of it. It’s like a version of Coco Mademoiselle that I could have a meaningful relationship with… maybe I’ll buy my sister one and just borrow it occasionally.
I never manage to sleep on long flights. I try, I really do. I try dimming the lights, I try reading myself to sleep (it works at home), I try thinking of the ocean… it never works. It especially never works on overnight flights, when you leave at night and are intended to arrive in the morning, and you’d better have gotten some sleep when you get to wherever you are going. This may be a mental issue, or perhaps because there’s no sensation of movement while in the air. I did manage to get through Jodi Picoult’s House Rules, but didn’t manage any forty winks. Sigh.
Saturday, Mar. 4: Landed in Rome in the late morning, and then The CEO and I walked ourselves silly all over the airport, trying to find the gate for our flight to Malta. It changed three times over an hour and a half, if you can believe that, and the electronic sign over the gate wasn’t correct until about seven minutes before boarding time. Which nearly gave The CEO a heart attack, let me tell you. Grrr. We did have time for ham-and-fontina paninis on excellent bread before the flight, and we certainly needed them. We were starving.
[Digression: The more flights I take on airlines based outside the US, the more I appreciate them: Qantas, Virgin Blue, Air New Zealand, Air Malta – all of them provide complimentary light snacks, smiling service, and comfortable seats, and none of them try to sell you stuff in-flight. If you’re reading this comment as a dig at US Airways, you’d be correct. I once ate a fresh (fresh!) parmesan croissant, served with excellent tea, on a 45-minute Qantas flight. Drank some wonderful Sauvignon Blanc, at no extra charge, on several Air New Zealand flights. The sandwich I ate on this Air Malta flight was made of soft, fresh bread, with sliced – not deli – turkey breast, real mayonnaise, and lettuce. It tasted homemade. Please reconsider your chilled hockey-puck whole wheat rolls, US Air!]
When we landed in Malta, I took a few minutes and snagged a coffret of Guerlain Aqua Allegorias: Herba Fresca, Bouquet Numero 1, Flora Nymphea, and Pamplelune. I thought it might be a great way to pick up some souvenirs for family members. I spritzed Pamplelune from a tester and found out that although I’m not a big citrus fan, I really like it; it stays cheerful for hours. I can get why some people call it “cat pee,” but I think it’s terrific.
We talked to the nice Maltese lady at Tourist Information, and she told us that we could either take a 45-minute taxi ride to the Gozo ferry for about 40 euros, or a two-hour bus ride, with one bus change, for about 8 euros. We had no schedule to keep, other than to check into our hotel by evening, and we decided to take the bus and see something of the island of Malta. It happened to be Carnival, which on Malta is festive and includes parades, but is not the sexy hedonistic 24-7 party you get in Rio.
The bus was packed with tourists and Maltese, including children dressed up for the holiday. It was delightful to see the kids in costume – my favorite was the baby in the pirate costume, sucking a pacifier and banging his hands gleefully on his stroller – they’re very colorful. It was like Halloween without the creepy aspect. We saw princesses and medieval princes, gypsies, rag dolls, knights, tigers and dragons: adorable.
When we finally arrived at the ferry terminal, I’d napped for awhile – funny how even a ride on an ancient bus with bad shocks was more lulling than a smooth airplane ride – and we’d seen several of the small cities on Malta. Once the half-hour ferry ride was over, it was starting to get dusk, and rather than attempt to figure out the bus schedule on the island of Gozo, we simply grabbed a taxi to the Cornucopia Hotel in Xaghra. I held on to The CEO’s hand pretty tightly, because (as we were to find out), the taxi drivers on Gozo regard speed limits and lane dividers as mere guidelines for the uninitiated. It was hair-raising. Our room was not fancy by American standards, but the bed was extremely comfortable, and we took a nap before our excellent dinner at the hotel restaurant, which featured traditional Gozitan Carnival foods, such as Rabbit and Mushrooms in Wine Sauce, roasted potatoes and vegetables, crusty bread, local wine, and an interesting dessert called Prinjolata.
Sunday, Mar. 5: We slept late, got up and had a delicious and extravagant breakfast at our hotel (fresh pastries, fruit, cheeses, bacon, eggs, grilled tomatoes, juice), then went back to sleep until early afternoon, when we walked over to the town of Victoria to meet our host for a introductory tour of Gozo. It’s not far from Xaghra (pronounced something like Shaaah-rah, with the R rolled in the back of the throat), but the way is very steep down, and then pretty steep back up. Ouch. In any case, we walked around the town of Victoria (originally Rabat, before the British showed up), through the adjacent town of Fontana, and down a nice, newly paved road (you cannot count on this feature of roads on Gozo!) to the seaside village of Xlendi. We ate mushroom pizza and bruschetta, talked to some pleasant Canadian ladies who were also attending the conference, and enjoyed the small harbor there before heading back to Victoria where we stayed for part of the Carnival celebrations. These included a parade and dance performances by what seemed to be mostly teenagers, dressed to the nines in colorful theme costumes. Fun.
All photos, except the Malta map which is from Lonely Planet, courtesy of The CEO. More Malta/Rome travelogue to come in a few days.
Like this:
Like Loading...
Read Full Post »